6.7 Powerstroke Turbo Upgrades: VGT, Non-VGT and Compounds
Everybody's got an opinion on 6.7 turbos. Most of them come from a guy at the pumps who read half a forum thread.
Here's what nobody tells you until your truck's already in pieces: the turbo on a 6.7 Powerstroke isn't just an air pump. It's the boost source, the back pressure regulator, the exhaust brake, and a big part of how your truck stays out of limp mode during a regen. Screw that swap up and you don't get a faster truck. You get a truck with four new problems and a check engine light you'll be chasing all summer.
We sell these things every day and we install them in our own bays. So this is the same rundown we give guys on the phone — what's actually happening inside that turbo, what your real options are across both generations, and which ones are genuinely bolt-and-go versus which ones have you sourcing parts at 9pm on a Saturday.
First: How the VGT Actually Works
Ford's run three different turbos on the 6.7. Know which one you've got, because the advice changes completely.
- 2011–2014 — Garrett GT32 SST. Dual compressor wheels on one shaft, wastegated. Clever on paper. In the field it's the one everybody wants gone.
- 2015–2019 — Garrett GT37. Single 61mm inducer compressor, bigger turbine, no wastegate. Simpler, bigger, way more reliable. This is also the generation that finally gave the Super Duty a real exhaust brake. Shop 11–19 parts here.
- 2020+ — Refined GT37 platform. 475 hp and 1,050 lb-ft to start. Then in 2023 Ford dropped the High Output — 500 hp, 1,200 lb-ft, its own turbo and upgraded manifolds. Remember that HO turbo. It matters later. Shop 20+ parts here.
The vanes are the whole trick
A regular turbo is a fixed-size hole. It's either sized for low-end response or top-end flow, and you eat the compromise — usually by dumping exhaust overboard through a wastegate.
The VGT doesn't compromise. Inside the turbine housing there's a ring of little movable vanes. They all pivot together on a part called the unison ring, and moving them changes the effective size of the turbine housing while you're driving.
Off idle and under light load, those vanes close down. Smaller passage, faster exhaust gas — same as putting your thumb over a garden hose. Fast gas spins the turbine right now. That's why you can hook to a 14,000 lb gooseneck and pull away from a light without feeling like you're stuck in wet concrete.
Up top and under load, the vanes swing wide open. Big passage, exhaust flows free, engine's not fighting itself. Without that you get drive pressure through the roof, EGTs climbing, and you're making heat instead of horsepower.
The PCM runs the whole show. It reads RPM, load, boost, back pressure and temp, then pulses the VGT solenoid to hold the vanes wherever it wants them — not open or closed, but everywhere in between, moving constantly. Healthy truck sits around 85% closed at idle and sweeps down toward 15% at wide open.
Your exhaust brake IS the turbo
This one surprises people. That exhaust brake button on your dash isn't a separate device. It's the VGT. Hit it coming down a grade and the PCM slams the vanes damn near shut and uses back pressure against the engine to hold the truck back. Same hardware, different job.
Tuck that away. It matters in about two minutes.
Why they cook themselves
Soot and carbon build up on the vanes and the unison ring. Trucks that idle all day, run short trips, or never really get hot are the worst offenders — farm trucks, work trucks, anything doing a lot of sitting.
Once those vanes stick, you don't get one clean symptom. You get underboost or overboost codes, a truck that feels laid over, EGTs you don't like, a dead exhaust brake, and eventually limp mode. One part, five headaches. That's why guys chase this thing for months replacing sensors before somebody finally pulls the turbo.
Path 1: VGT Drop-Ins — Keep the Vanes, Keep the Brake
You stay variable geometry and stay in the factory location. Bigger compressor wheel, better turbine, ported housing, freer-flowing vane setup. Your truck still talks to the turbo the way Ford intended.
You keep your exhaust brake. You keep factory manners. On the right unit you don't even need a tune.
For most guys reading this, this is the right lane. And in this lane there's one company that isn't just going bigger — they're going better. Browse everything SPE we carry.
Before you shop: ball bearing vs. journal bearing
This is the spec most guys skip past, and it's the one that decides how the truck actually feels.
Your factory turbo rides on journal bearings. The shaft floats on a film of pressurized oil. It works, it's cheap to build, it's forgiving. But that oil film creates drag, and drag is the enemy of spool. Every bit of exhaust energy fighting bearing friction is energy not spinning your compressor.
A ball bearing cartridge cuts that friction way down. Less parasitic drag on the shaft means the wheel accelerates faster on the same exhaust energy. Same-size wheel, same housing, same truck — the ball bearing unit lights up quicker and responds sharper off idle and out of the throttle. It's not a small difference either; it's the kind of thing you feel pulling out of a driveway with a trailer, not something you need a dyno to find.
Two things that follow from that, and both matter when you're picking a part number:
1. An SPE ball bearing turbo spools faster than your stock turbo. Factory unit is journal bearing. The Strike HO runs a larger ceramic ball bearing cartridge. You're getting more airflow and quicker response at the same time, which is normally a trade you don't get to make.
2. Ball bearing out-spools journal bearing, every time, size for size. When SPE gives you the choice — Emperor and Death Stalker both come either way — the ball bearing version is the one that drives better.
So why would anybody buy journal? Cost, mostly. Journal is also a little quieter, and it's more forgiving if your oil isn't perfect. Ball bearing units sometimes carry a faint whistle at low speed. If the truck's a dedicated puller running a big turbo and you care more about the invoice than the first 200 RPM of spool, journal's fine.
Our take: if you're spending this kind of money and the truck sees the street, buy the ball bearing. Spool is the thing you live with every single day. Peak horsepower is a number you tell people at cars and coffee.
One caveat so nobody's disappointed: bearings don't beat physics. A 70mm ball bearing S300 still won't light up like a stock VGT — it's a much bigger wheel. Ball bearing makes a given turbo spool faster than that same turbo on journal bearings. It doesn't make a big turbo behave like a small one.
⭐ SPE Strike HO Turbo (2020–2026) — the only true drop-in for a 20+ truck
If you've got a 2020 or newer, stop shopping. This is the one.
The SPE Motorsport Strike HO Turbo (SPE-S100468) is the first and only aftermarket High Output-style turbocharger built for the 2020-current 6.7L Powerstroke. Not a hot-rodded standard unit. An HO-architecture turbo.
Here's what that means for you: Ford spent real money engineering a better turbo for the 2023+ HO trucks. SPE took that architecture, brought it to every 2020-and-up truck, and improved on it. If you've got a 2020, 2021, or 2022, you can now run HO-style hardware Ford never offered you.
And this is what separates it from everything else on the market — it's a direct bolt-in and it requires no tuning. Install it, start it, drive it. Stock calibration. Exhaust brake still works. Regens still work. Nothing to explain to your service advisor.
What's inside:
- 62mm billet compressor wheel paired with a redesigned factory-style turbine. SPE re-contoured the turbine wheel and optimized the housing to cut exhaust back pressure — without killing the quick spool and sharp VGT response the 6.7 is known for. That's the hard part. Anybody can bolt a bigger wheel on and make top-end numbers while the truck feels dead off idle. This doesn't do that.
- Factory HO water-cooled compressor cover. Keeps compressor temps in check when you're loaded and climbing. Big deal for guys towing in the summer.
- Larger ceramic ball bearing cartridge. Your factory turbo is journal bearing. Ceramic ball bearings cut shaft friction dramatically, so this thing spools quicker than the stock unit while flowing more air. Better durability on top of it.
- All stainless steel VGT vanes and cartridge components.Stainless in the vane assembly is exactly where you want it — that's the part living in the heat cycles, and that's the part that seizes on a factory turbo. SPE built the fix into the design instead of selling you a cleaning service later.
- Threaded, serviceable plugs instead of factory pressed-in ball plugs. Those press-in plugs are a known weak point. Now they're serviceable.
- Smooth-discharge turbine housing. They killed the dead pocket behind the factory turbine outlet. Better exhaust evacuation, lower drive pressure, more efficient turbo.
Supports 600+ horsepower. OEM fit, OEM function, OEM drivability.
And it fits Standard Output trucks, not just HO. That's the part people get hung up on. It's HO-style hardware, but you don't need an HO truck to run it. The water-cooled compressor cover wants a factory-style cooling circuit, and the coolant retrofit kitgives an SO truck exactly that. So a 2020, 2021 or 2022 — every one of which left the factory Standard Output — ends up running the cooling setup Ford only ever put on the 2023+ HO.
Call us when you order and we'll make sure the right coolant kit ships with the turbo. Nobody should be sitting in the driveway with a turbo they can't finish because a hose kit didn't come in the box.
That's a real drop-in: bolt it in, no tune, keep every function the truck came with, and get airflow, lower drive pressure and better hardware on top. Nobody else in the 20+ turbo market is doing all of that at once.
SPE Strike VGT (2011–2019)
Same philosophy, older truck. If you've got an 11–19, the Strike VGT is the cleanest answer out there and it isn't particularly close.
SPE didn't swap a compressor wheel into a factory housing and call it a stage kit. They spent years tearing these apart and fixed what actually breaks:
- One-piece cast front cover. The OEM cover is a two-piece deal with a press-in center that comes apart. SPE casts it as one piece. That failure mode is just gone.
- Vane assembly integrated into the exhaust housing.They deleted the restrictive factory vane cage entirely. More exhaust flow, less back pressure, one less thing to fail.
- 360° hardened thrust bearing — full circle of lubrication with an optimized oil path — plus optimized journal bearings.
- New compressor cover with the silencer ring deleted for better flow.
Stage 1 runs a 62mm billet 11-blade compressor. Factory wheel moves 70 lb/min — the SPE billet wheel does 81. Real number, not marketing.
Stage 2 (SPE-S100191) is a full redesign — new turbine, turbine housing, compressor wheel, compressor housing, bigger oil passages through the center section, and A/R ratios changed to suit the bigger wheels. Through-bore compressor, long shaft, larger diameter shaft, 10-blade 6.7-specific turbine (not a 6.0 turbine like some outfits use). 88 lb/min. SPE says it supports a proven 150 hp over a maxed-out stock 15+ turbo and still drives like stock. Guys are running 40+ psi all day and it sounds like a mix of a VGT and a non-VGT — which is exactly the noise most of you are after. Second listing here.
Tuning: this is where Stage 1 and Stage 2 split, and it matters.
Stage 1 runs on the stock calibration. Drop it in a 15–19 and you don't touch the ECU. Works on an 11–14 too, though you may see a check engine light and you'll need the 11–14 retrofit install kit.
Stage 2 needs a tune. Doesn't matter what the box says — we install these and we're telling you straight, budget for calibration with a Stage 2 or you won't be happy with how it drives. Tuning here.
And a word on towing with a Stage 2. We don't recommend it unless you've been around these trucks a while and you know what you're watching. It's a bigger turbo with a tune behind it, and pulling heavy on a setup like that leaves you less margin than a stock-frame unit does. If the truck's primary job is a gooseneck, buy the Stage 1. It's the right turbo for that work and it's cheaper. We'd rather sell you the smaller one and have you happy with it.
Fitment, straight: designed for 2015–2019 F250/F350/F450 non-cab-and-chassis and 2017+ cab and chassis. Fits 11–14 pickups and 11–16 cab and chassis with the retrofit kit. On a 15–16 you must use the 17+ pedestal, pedestal gasket, and coolant line — Ford part numbers HC3Z6587A, HC3Z6N639A, FC3Z9U469B. Don't skip it. We've seen guys try.
Custom-built, so figure 2–4 weeks. Worth the wait.
The rest of the VGT field
KC Turbos Jetfire (2020+) — solid drop-in, fits SO and HO, runs the stock cal. KC ported compressor cover, Jetfire turbine wheel, KC high-flow vane cage, upgraded compressor wheel, Whistler and non-Whistler. Lower back pressure, cooler EGTs, quicker spool. Hardware, pedestal, filter and gaskets included — VGT solenoid is not, so budget one if yours is tired. A lazy solenoid makes a brand new turbo feel like junk. If you want the whistle, this is your ticket. See all KC we stock.
KC Whistler (11–19) — Stage 1 at 63mm, Stage 2 at 64mm, Stage 3 at 68mm, 10-blade turbine, that 6.0-style whistle everybody either loves or hates. 15–16 trucks need the pedestal conversion kit. Stage 2 and 3 want a healthy CP4 or upgraded fuel system to show you what they've got. Alternate listing.
BD Diesel Screamer (20–22) — drop-in, stock-appearing, built from new genuine Ford cores with an upgraded rotating assembly and larger compressor.
Titan Turbo Service (TTS Gen2) — direct-fit with all-new internals, rated to 750 hp. Dual plane billet compressor wheels in 62/64/66mm, custom high-flow 9 or 10 blade turbines, TowMaster variants for guys who pull heavy. Covers 20+ applications. We don't stock Titan — call us and we'll tell you straight how it compares to what we do carry.
Industrial Injection XR2 (17–19) — 64.5mm billet 11-blade compressor, 66mm high-flow 10-blade exhaust wheel, no core charge, one year unlimited mileage warranty.
Just need it running right? The Industrial Injection 2020+ Garrett AVNT3788 for cab and chassis is the straight OE-spec answer. No upgrade, just a correct part at a fair price.
Fleece Cheetah builds stock-location units for 11–19 trucks. Worth knowing before you go shopping: Fleece does not make a 20+ option. If you're on a 2020 or newer and somebody is trying to sell you a Cheetah for it, walk away — whatever they're quoting you isn't going to fit your truck.
Path 2: Non-VGT Kits — Delete the Vanes, Sleep at Night
At some point you're past what the factory frame will do. Or you're just done with vanes entirely. Browse our non-VGT selection.
Fixed geometry means you rip the VGT out and put a conventional S300 or S400 on purpose-built manifolds and a new pedestal.
What you get: a vane mechanism that can't stick, because there isn't one. A rebuildable turbo on the most supported platform in diesel — any shop in America can service an S300. And a ceiling way past 600 hp.
What you give up, and we're not going to sugarcoat it: your exhaust brake. No vanes, no exhaust brake. Anybody who tells you different is trying to move a part. If you pull a fifth wheel through the mountains every weekend and lean on that brake going downhill, stay VGT. Get a Strike. We'd rather lose the sale than have you hate your truck.
SPE Emperor Turbo System — the one that's actually complete
"Drop-in" gets abused worse than anything in this industry. Half these kits ship you a turbo and a bag of gaskets, then let you find out on your own that you need up pipes, a different drain, intake piping and a mouthpiece — after the truck's apart and you've got four days in it.
The SPE Emperor is the exception.
It uses your factory intake manifolds. This is the big one. SPE's whole design headache was fitting an S300-frame turbo down in the valley while keeping the stock intake manifolds. Most conversion kits force you into a full piping package — hundreds of dollars and hours of labor you didn't plan on. If all you want is a turbo, you buy a turbo.
It keeps the factory driver-side up pipe. Bellow and all. You end up with one up pipe and it's a Ford part number you can grab at the dealership. You're not waiting six weeks on some proprietary piece.
The passenger manifold comes with it. 600-series ductile iron, designed in-house. Keeps the Hot-V principle of getting heat and flow to the turbo fast, built around dual-volute T4, runner lengths tuned to the firing order for exhaust pulse optimization. That's why a fixed-geometry setup on this platform still spools decent instead of feeling like you're waiting on the mail.
Pedestal and drain done right. Hard-anodized pedestal so it doesn't oxidize against an iron block. Form-fit silicone oil return, push-in, no fittings to torque and nothing to weep. Compare that to a steel flex drain — the number one leak on half the retrofit kits out there.
Standard T4 flange. Change turbo size later, even jump S300 to S400, without buying new up pipes. Most kits lock you into whatever you picked the day you ordered.
The turbo's a corrected S300. Better castings, better bearing material, tighter machine work. 63mm, 66mm and 70mm compressor inlets, journal or ball bearing, 80/73 turbine. Get the ball bearing — on a turbo this size, spool is the thing you'll notice every day. Most parts stay compatible with standard S300 stuff including turbine housings and rebuild kits, so it's serviceable forever.
Supports stock power all the way to 800 hp. Six configurations, S100231–S100236. There's an 11–19 version too (S100134) that doubles as the fix for a grenaded GT32 SST on an 11–14 — find it in our 11–19 turbo section.
Building further? The SPE 5-axis CNC machined exhaust manifold flanges with EGT bung pair right up.
SPE says it plainly and we've found it true: the hardest part of the install is getting the old turbo out.
Other non-VGT options
MPD builds budget SXE and BorgWarner non-VGT drop-in kits for 11–19 — 6061 billet aluminum and 304 stainless pedestal, mandrel bent charge pipe, pedestal welded on a jig, two-piece downpipe with the install kits, quality oil feed and drain. Good value if you're watching the budget. See what we stock.
No Limit Fabrication does a Precision-based drop-in turbo kit (67PTK) for guys who want a name-brand hot side. Solid fab work, made in the USA. Browse No Limit.
H&S offers SX-E kits, and there's no shortage of shop-built T4 setups. Just know what's in the box before you order.
Path 3: Compounds — When You're Done Playing
Two turbos, staged. Small one spools instantly and feeds the big one. This is how you make silly power and still drive to work.
⭐ SPE Death Stalker Compound Turbo System
Here's what makes the SPE path different from everybody else's: you don't have to decide today.
The SPE Death Stalker is a modular add-on to the Emperor kit. Buy the Emperor now, run it, love it. Decide in two years you want compounds? Bolt the Death Stalker on top of what you've already got. You're not throwing away a turbo system to step up — you're building on it. Nobody else on this platform gives you that path.
Important: it's an add-on to the Emperor kit only. It's engineered specifically to work with the Emperor non-VGT turbos so the ratio between the high-pressure and atmospheric turbos is right. It is not a standalone kit.
Atmospheric turbo options: 76/96 and 80/96, journal or ball bearing — and on an atmospheric charger this large, the ball bearing option is worth every penny for how much sooner it comes alive. That's a 96mm S400-style turbine with a 1.31 A/R V-band inlet and outlet — and SPE packaged a turbine that big in a way nobody had done on the 6.7 platform before. Which brings up the part every guy who's shopped compounds cares about: you keep your full-size batteries. Nothing gets cut. Nothing rubs. If you've priced compound kits before, you know how rare that is.
They also got serious about spool. Exhaust and tubing sizing plus heat transfer efficiency were the priority — shorter distances to the turbo with good heat retention. Result is a compound setup that lights up quicker than the numbers suggest, which is why they'll tell you it works for daily driving, drag racing and heavy towing rather than picking one.
What's in the box: - Atmospheric turbo - 304 stainless TIG welded hot side piping, including a downpipe that extends to the underside of the vehicle - Aluminum charge pipe - Chromoly powder coated turbo mount - Oil feed and return hoses - SPE lower oil pan (if optioned) - Heat wrap - Silicone turbo inlet elbow and intermediate coupler - Billet calibrated mass air flow housing - Air filter - V-bands and T-bolt clamps - All hardware
Fits 2011+ — call us to confirm your exact year and cab configuration before ordering. Not available for sale in California. Second listing here.
No Limit Fabrication Compound Kit
The No Limit compound kit is the other benchmark on the 6.7 and it's what a lot of the fast street trucks around here run. It's an add-a-turbo system — your factory turbo stays in the valley and the big one feeds it.
Standard kit gets you a Precision billet 76/87 with a 360 thrust bearing and a 1.0 A/R exhaust housing (earlier kits ran a Precision 76/85 ball bearing with a 1.12 A/R). That A/R is picked on purpose — spools quick, keeps back pressure somewhere that won't hurt anything. With the right air and fuel it'll make 800+ horsepower and still tow to the GVWR of your truck. Want more? Step up to the 82/85 or 86/85. Ball bearing options spool the fastest but do carry a little whistle at low speed. Budget-minded guys can go F.I.S. billet compressor wheel instead.
Part numbers by year: 67CTK for 11–16, 67CTK17 for 17–19.
Read this before you order. Requires an oil pan with a drain port. Requires CCV modification. Requires intercooler piping if the truck doesn't already have it. And it only works on 11–19 trucks running the 15–19 style turbo. If you've got an 11–14 with the original SST, you're doing a retrofit first. That one catches people every time — verify your turbo style before you click buy.
MPP Compound Kit — the 20+ option
Thought compounds were off the table on a 2020-and-newer? Not anymore. The MPP 6.7L Powerstroke Compound Kit covers 11–26.
MPP spent years developing, testing and racing this thing, and several months in CAD making it fit without relocating wiring, batteries or fender liners. No thin-wall exhaust piping, no mild steel tubing anywhere in the kit — which is exactly the corner most budget compound kits cut.
2015+ trucks keep the OEM turbo in the valley and this runs as an add-a-turbo kit. 2011–2014 trucks must have the budget kit to run it — it will not work with the factory SST turbo.
Note that MPP doesn't warranty the turbochargers themselves; that goes back to the turbo manufacturer.
We stock both and can spec the whole combination — turbo, fuel, injectors, trans. We also build engines in house if you're going that deep.
The Tuning Talk Nobody Wants to Have
Strike HO (20+) and Strike Stage 1 (11–19): no tune. Stock calibration, bolt it in, drive it. That's the whole argument for going SPE on the VGT side.
Strike Stage 2: tune it. It's a bigger turbo and it wants calibration behind it to drive the way it should. Don't let anybody tell you otherwise.
Non-VGT and compounds: you're tuning. Your PCM is still commanding a VGT solenoid that no longer has vanes to command, and it needs to be told what's going on. Good news is 20+ trucks aren't the dead end they were a few years back — remote switch-on-the-fly EZ Lynk tuning now covers 2023–2026 Standard Output and High Output, no bench flash, no ECM swap, emissions intact.
And do the transmission. On a big turbo truck this isn't optional. Factory shift points were written for a factory torque curve. Hang a 70mm on there and leave the trans alone and the truck feels worse than stock while you cook clutches. Tuning for 20+ • Tuning for 11–19 • Transmissions
While you're in there: a 4" downpipe flows better than factory and installs easier than the OE piece. Want it pretty? T304 polished version is worth a look. Do it once.
Quick Comparison
| Option | Years | Type | Exhaust Brake | Tune | Ceiling |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| SPE Strike HO | 20–26 | VGT drop-in | Keeps it | None | 600+ hp |
| SPE Strike Stage 1 | 11–19 | VGT drop-in | Keeps it | None | 81 lb/min — best tow pick |
| SPE Strike Stage 2 | 11–19 | VGT drop-in | Keeps it | Yes | +150 hp, 88 lb/min |
| KC Jetfire | 20+ SO & HO | VGT drop-in | Keeps it | Stock cal | Moderate |
| KC Whistler | 11–19 | VGT drop-in | Keeps it | Stg 2/3 want fuel | 63/64/68mm |
| BD Screamer | 20–22 | VGT drop-in | Keeps it | No | Moderate |
| Titan TTS Gen2 | 11–19, 20+ | VGT drop-in | Keeps it | Depends | 750 hp |
| SPE Emperor | 11–19, 20+ | Non-VGT S300 | Loses it | Yes | 800 hp |
| SPE Death Stalker | 2011+ | Compound (Emperor add-on) | Loses it | Yes | 76/96 or 80/96 |
| No Limit Compound | 11–19 only | Compound (add-a-turbo) | Loses it | Yes | 800+ hp |
| MPP Compound | 11–26 | Compound (add-a-turbo) | Loses it | Yes | Big |
So What Should You Buy?
You've got a 2020 or newer and want it done right: SPE Strike HO. No tune, keeps your brake, HO hardware Ford never gave your truck, 600+ hp on tap. Only true drop-in in that year range and it's not a close call.
You tow heavy and use the exhaust brake: stay VGT. Not up for debate. Strike HO if you're 20+, Strike Stage 1 if you're 11–19 — no tune, and it's the one built for that job. Skip the Stage 2 for tow duty unless you're experienced with a tuned truck.
You've already replaced this turbo once and you're not doing it twice: SPE, either generation. Stainless vanes, one-piece cover, threaded service plugs, integrated vane assembly — they engineered out the parts that actually fail instead of bolting a billet wheel onto the same design that put you here in the first place.
You want past 600 and you're done with vanes: SPE Emperor. Go in knowing you're giving up the exhaust brake and you're getting tuned.
You want compounds but you're not ready to write that check today: buy the Emperor now and add the Death Stalker later. Same system, staged over time, nothing wasted.
You want to hurt people's feelings at the track and still pull a trailer Monday: Death Stalker if you're on an Emperor, No Limitif you're 11–19, MPP if you're 20+.
You just need it running: stock replacement Garrett. No shame in it. Save your money for injectors.
Bottom Line
That turbo's doing four jobs at once. Buy on part number alone and you'll find out the hard way.
The 20+ market has been a compromise for years — either an oversized drop-in that hurts drivability, or a full conversion that costs you the exhaust brake and a tune. The Strike HO is the first one that doesn't ask you to give anything up. Bolt it in, don't touch the ECU, keep every function the truck came with, and get HO airflow and better hardware on top.
And if you're headed further than that, the Emperor-to-Death-Stalker path means you buy once and build on it instead of starting over.
All 11–19 turbos • All 20+ turbos • Non-VGT • Tuning • More guides
Not sure which lane is yours? Call 865-640-2097 and tell us what the truck does for a living. Ten minutes on the phone beats buying the wrong turbo twice — and we've talked plenty of guys out of the expensive one.
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